How to Grow and Care for Phalaenopsis Orchids Indoors

The main pest that Phalaenopsis attract are mealybugs, which will hide in the leaf axis. The best treatment for mealybug is either a homemade pesticide of 1:1 parts water and rubbing alcohol, with a few drops of dish soap added. Spray the plants every few days, washing off the dead bugs in between . For large outbreaks, an application of a specially formulated pesticide spray every few days is more effective.

Phalaenopsis Orchid Care

Commonly referred to as the “moth orchid”, Phalaenopsis are one of the longest blooming orchid genera, producing flowers that last from 2 to 6 months before dropping! Phalaenopsis have also been known to bloom 2 to 3 times per year once they have reached a mature size. After it has flowered the first time, cut the stem just above the node where the first flower bloomed. From the top node a new flower stem should emerge within 2 months. If there is no response or the flower spike turns brown, cut it off near the base of the plant where it emerged.

Light and Shade

Phalaenopsis do well in shaded light (1000 to 1500 foot-candles), so that if a hand is passed over the leaves it does not produce a shadow. We recommend growing in east or west-facing windows, although the east exposure is better because the temperature is lower in the early part of the day when the plant is receiving the greatest amount of light. South-facing windows should only be used if shielded from the sun using a sheer curtain. If using artificial light to grow indoors, LEDs are the best option for orchids. Phalaenopsis prefer 11 hours of artificial light in winter, and 14 to 16 hours in summer. The artificial light market has expanded greatly in recent years, so a quick Google search will result in a variety of lighting options and price ranges.

Temperature and Humidity

Phalaenopsis orchids enjoy a fairly warm climate. These orchids do best in intermediate to warm conditions, preferring daytime temperatures of 70°F to 80°F (21°C to 27°C), and nighttime temperatures of 60°F to 65°F (16°C to 18°C). Since this temperature range is similar to that of many homes, Phalaenopsis make for ideal house plants.

Phalaenopsis thrive under high humidity and will benefit from humidity levels between 50% and 70%. This can be achieved at home with the use of a humidifier or a humidity tray. Just make sure that the plant is not standing in water or the roots will rot.

Watering

Phalaenopsis like to be kept fairly moist, with the media becoming only slightly damp between waterings. During warm dry weather, they may need to be watered 2 times a week. These orchids form wilted leaves, yellowed leaf tips, and rapid yellowing throughout the oldest base leaves, when not receiving enough water. If this happens, check the root system. Over-watering may have caused the roots to rot, thereby depriving the plant from absorbing water. If the roots are healthy, you are likely under-watering and should increase your watering schedule accordingly.

We always recommend watering in the morning, as this gives the leaves time to dry and avoid bacterial growth overnight. If possible, use water low in alkalinity, such as rainwater, distilled water, or reverse osmosis water. If you have a dehumidifier in your home, the water that collects in the tray is excellent for watering orchids.

Feeding

We highly recommend Green Jungle Orchid Food , specially formulated to provide orchids with the nutrients they would naturally encounter in their wild habitats. This is the fertilizer that we developed to use on our own plants in production, with excellent results for decades! This formula works best with water low in alkalinity (such as rainwater, distilled water, or reverse osmosis water). However, you may use tap water, keeping in mind that mineral buildup will require repotting more frequently, on the order of every 1 to 2 years.

If potting in bark mix, fertilize every time you water, flushing with non-softened water once a month. This rinses the media of salt and mineral buildup. When potting in sphagnum moss, fertilize every 3rd watering year round.

Potting

Phalaenopsis do well in a light, porous medium, capable of holding moisture while draining thoroughly upon watering. At Orchids Limited, we recommend potting these plants in New Zealand Sphagnum Moss , or the Medium grade of our Traditional Orchid Bark Mix for plants in 5″ pots or larger.

Repot once per each year, preferably in the spring or fall when temperatures are mild. Remove all dead or dying roots from the plant, carefully taking off the old compost without causing damage to the live roots. If the mix is old, crumbly and sour, carefully remove the media and rinse the root system. Trim off any dead roots and dead leaves. Position the plant in the center of the pot. Then, spreading the plant roots out, fill in the space with the potting medium.

To avoid the transfer of orchid diseases, it is standard procedure to sterilize all cutting and potting instruments before using them on a plant. This can be done by flaming pruning shears with a butane torch, or by spraying with rubbing alcohol and wiping with a clean paper towel.

Pest Control

The main pest that Phalaenopsis attract are mealybugs, which will hide in the leaf axis. The best treatment for mealybug is either a homemade pesticide of 1:1 parts water and rubbing alcohol, with a few drops of dish soap added. Spray the plants every few days, washing off the dead bugs in between . For large outbreaks, an application of a specially formulated pesticide spray every few days is more effective.

Bud Blast

There are many factors that can cause buds to dry up and drop off the plants without ever opening. Common care causes over or under watering, using softened water, and over-fertilizing. Environmental causes may include are temperatures reaching too high, light levels staying too low, spikes being subjected to a cool draft, and fume exposure from house work.

How to Grow and Care for Phalaenopsis Orchids Indoors

Jon VanZile was a writer for The Spruce covering houseplants and indoor gardening for almost a decade. He is a professional writer whose articles on plants and horticulture have appeared in national and regional newspapers and magazines.

Julie Thompson-Adolf is a Master Gardener and author with over 30 years of experience in year-round organic gardening; seed starting, growing heirlooms, and sustainable farming.

Phalaenopsis orchids, native only to the tropical regions of Asia and Australia, are mostly known for brightening up the indoor spaces of homes in the U.S. In fact, these exotic flowers are almost impossible to grow outdoors anywhere in continental North America. With thousands of orchids to choose from, orchids from the Phalaenopsis genus remain the most popular ones because they are a particularly good orchid choice for beginners.

The flower stalks of these orchids grow from leaf joints, or axils, and often bear multiple flower buds, which can bloom for a month or more when properly cared for. Their long-lasting flowers are held on arching branches and open successively. A single multi-branching flower spike can have more than 20 flowers, and individual flowers can last for weeks.

Sunlight

Good lighting is required to grow Phalaenopsis, but direct sunlight will scorch the leaves. During the winter, however, you can place the orchid in a south-facing or east-facing window that gets some direct light. Rotate your orchid from time to time to keep its growth even. A plant with proper lighting will produce light green leaves. Too little light will result in dark green leaves, and too much light will cause a pink or reddish tinge to develop along leaf margins, which will eventually turn yellow.

Artificial Light

If there is not sufficient natural light, you can also position the plant under supplemental grow lights. The lights of choice for orchids are fluorescent tubes (40 or 74 watts depending on length), and locate the Phalaenopsis 12 inches underneath the light.

Temperature and Humidity

Phalaenopsis is considered a “warm houseplant” and prefers temperatures between 75 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Still, they can adapt to normal house temperatures of 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. The higher the temperature, the greater the plant’s need for humidity, and the higher the humidity and temperature, the greater the need for turbulent airflow to prevent rot, fungus, and disease. Many successful orchid growers run a ceiling fan or stationary fan constantly in rooms where they grow orchids.

Orchids also like contrasting night and day temperatures. To induce a flower spike, the plant needs a few cooler nights, with temperatures around 55 F, in order to bloom.

Watering

Phalaenopsis is a “monopodial” orchid, which means that it grows from a single stem. It does not have the large water-storing pseudobulbs found on sympodial (or branching) orchids, hence, this plant has a lower tolerance for drought.

During the growing season, water the plant weekly or whenever its exposed roots turn silvery white (about once a week). Run warm water over the plant, bark, and aerial roots three or four times over the course of about 10 minutes, giving the orchid plenty of time for absorption. Then, make sure it’s completely drained before you return it back to its window. Water should never be allowed to rest around the stem of the plant. This will cause the new leaves to rot, and the plant will die. Once the roots have been watered, they should turn from silver to pale green. During the flowering season, you can cut the waterings back to every other week. Phalaenopsis orchids can suffer from root or stem rot, which usually occurs because the growing medium has been overwatered and is too soggy.

Fertilizer

During the growing season (summer), fertilize your orchid with a diluted orchid fertilizer every third or fourth week. Skip feedings during fall, winter, and spring (flowering season), as too much fertilizer will lead to excessive foliage and no blooms. Some growers like to give the plant a “bloom booster” in September or October to provoke a flower spike.

Pruning and Maintenance

Prune mature orchids once a year during their dormancy period, after the blooms have faded. Using clean scissors or a knife, cut the top portion of the stem back to one inch above a node to encourage a new stem section and more blooms. You can also carefully deadhead the plant, however, spent flowers may just fall on their own. Remove any brown or black leaves, and snip back unhealthy roots that are either dead and brown, or mushy.

It is normal for your orchid to grow roots above the soil. These are aerial roots—don’t cut them off. You can just leave them.

Types of Phalaenopsis Orchids

There are about 60 true species of Phalaenopsis orchids. These plants have been extensively hybridized, and there are thousands of hybrids, ranging from the classic white hybrid moth orchid to jewel-like miniatures, with clouds of yellow and candy pink blooms. Some grower favorites include:

• Phalaenopsis ‘Liodoro’ produces wavy, bright green leaves and pink and purple star-like flowers. This plant can reach a height of 19 inches.
• Phalaenopsis schillerianaboasts large 2.5-inch, pink and purple flowers, with dark green variegated leaves. Each stem on this variety can grow up to 200 flowers.
• Phalaenopsis stuartiana produces white flowers with yellow and red dots on multiple branches, and can reach up to 30 inches high.
• MiniPhalaenopsis require less water due to their smaller stature and come in an assortment of flower colors.

Container and Size

As with all epiphytic orchids, Phalaenopsis should be planted in free-draining containers with large drainage holes so they never sit in water.

Most Phalaenopsis fit in a 4- or 6-inch azalea pot, and they are usually never planted a pot larger than 6 inches in diameter. As long as the pot as excellent drainage, both plastic as well as terra cotta pots are fine.

Potting Soil and Drainage

In native conditions, moth orchids grow on trees. For this reason, they are considered an epiphyte—a type of plant that requires a host, but is not parasitic. To mimic these conditions, potted orchids are often grown in a potting mix made from fir tree bark, redwood bark chips, or Monterey pine bark chips. Most bark potting media, complete with perlite, sphagnum moss, charcoal, or coconut husk chips will help the orchid retain water. You can also buy a commercial potting mix that is made especially for orchids. Phalaenopsis need plenty of air circulation around their root system, as they don’t thrive in a suffocating medium.

Potting and Repotting Phalaenopsis Orchids

Repot Phalaenopsis orchids in the spring, after the bloom is done and when you see roots growing out of the pot. Adult Phalaenopsis can often grow for two years before they need to be repotted. Use a pot that is an inch or two bigger than the existing pot, and disinfect it with a weak bleach solution (orchids are very sensitive to bacteria). Wash your hands and any tools you’ll be using thoroughly. Let the pot dry fully, and then fill it with an orchid potting media. Gently remove the orchid from its existing pot, cut away any brown roots, and then place it into the new pot with the moistened bark medium. Gently push the soil around the roots. Mist daily until new roots form.

Propagating

Orchids can be propagated by seed, but the process is time-consuming and requires special laboratory equipment, so it’s best to leave this to commercial growers. Home growers, however, can propagate their moth orchid by replanting the orchid’s naturally produced “baby,” known as a keiki. Keikis are identical copies of the parent that periodically appear on either an old or new flower spikes. After the keiki is about a year old, you can remove it from the parent plant and give it its own pot.

Here’s how to propagate orchids from a keiki:

1. Gather flower scissors, alcohol wipes, a pot, a spray bottle, and an orchid-specific potting medium.
2. Wait until the keiki is about a year old, 3 inches long, and has developed two or three leaves of its own and several good roots.
3. Disinfect the blades of the scissors with the alcohol wipes and carefully remove the keiki from the parent plant, keeping the roots intact.
4. Moisten the bark potting medium and plant the keiki in its own pot (it’s okay if the top parts of the roots are exposed).
5. Mist the baby plant daily with water until it becomes established.

They can sometimes experience fungal conditions such as foliar blights, leaf spots, fungal rots, and flower blights. Most of these conditions can be controlled by removing the affected portion of the plant (leaf, root, or flower) and sometimes treating the plant with a fungicide. Still, all can be prevented by maintaining proper soil conditions.

If your orchid’s leaves are wrinkled, it’s likely that you’re under-watering and there’s too little humidity. To increase the humidity, add a pebble tray with water below the plant, but don’t let the pot sit in the water.

Phalaenopsis orchids very rarely encounter problems with insects, especially when grown indoors. Still, scale, mealy bugs, slugs, and snails can occasionally move into an outdoor or greenhouse-grown orchid. Most pest conditions can be treated by spraying with insecticidal soap.

Orchids can experience bud blast—a condition where the flower buds drop without blooming. This is usually caused by sudden changes in temperature, humidity, moisture, or fertilizer. Maintaining ideal growing conditions should lessen the occurrence of problems.

In the wild, Phalaenopsis orchids only bloom once a year. Indoors, however, you can get them to bloom every six months with a few simple steps. Once the last bloom has dropped, cut the brown stem off to no more than 3 inches in height. Continue caring for your plant as normal and feeding it a diluted liquid fertilizer to promote growth and blooms. Once the stem has grown a new leaf, it’s ready to rebloom. Relocate your orchid to a cooler area—one with temperatures of 55 to 65 F and bright indirect sunlight. After one month in this cooler environment, your orchid should produce new blooms.

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