27 Common Types of Weeds with Names and Picture Identification

This low-growing plant is a quick-growing plant that spreads rapidly and is difficult to eradicate. Though the lifespan lasts four to six weeks, the seeds can survive for years in fields, making it difficult to control through manual removal alone.

Common Garden Weed Identification (with Photos)

Identifying and Controlling 13 Common Lawn and Garden Weeds

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How well do you know your weeds? Here are 13 of the most troublesome and noxious weeds with photographs to help identify them. Plus, see non-chemical solutions to get rid of weeds in your lawn and garden, and 10 ways to prevent weeds from growing all together!

What is a Garden Weed?

No one likes to deal with garden weeds, but some weeds have to go—or they will outcompete your food crops, flowers, and native plants.

There are different types of “weeds.” Here are definitions based on the Weed Science Society of America’s descriptions.

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• Weed: A plant that causes economic losses or ecological damages or creates health problems for animals or humans or is simply undesirable where it grows. Crabgrass in a classic example.
• Noxious Weed: Any plant designated by federal, state, or local government officials as injurious to public health, agriculture, recreation, wildlife, or property. Field Bindweed and Purple Loosestrife are classic examples. See a list of noxious weeds by state.
• Invasive Weed: Weeds that are non-native invaders and therefore lack natural competitors or enemies to curtail their growth, which allows them to overrun native plants, displace species, and alter ecosystems. Classic examples are Kudzu and English Ivy.

“Weeds” aren’t inherently bad. Many weeds stabilize the soil and add organic matter. Some are edible to humans and provide habitat and food for wildlife, too. Weeds are also indicators of your soil’s health—or lack thereof. Find out what weeds can tell you about your soil!

10 Ways to Prevent Weeds Before They Become a Problem

Herbicides are an obvious and quick fix, but will not keep your weed problem from recurring year after year. For a healthy yard, you must address the cause.

1. The #1 rule with weeds is never let ‘em seed! Weed early, when the weeds are young. Some weeds produce tens of thousands of seeds from a single plant, multiplying your weed control problems for years to come. Get used to inspecting your garden daily. When weeds are young, pull them out or cut them off below the soil line. Be careful to keep your digging shallow so that you don’t bring new weed seeds to the surface. Weeds are easily to remove when the ground is moist, such as the day after fresh rainfall.
2. Clean your gardening tools when you move from one area of the garden to another to avoid spreading weed seeds. Do not leave pulled weeds on the surface, either; discard in the trash.
3. Mow your lawn regularly to keep lawn weeds from producing seed. Mow off these green leaves!
4. Be careful when buying materials from garden centers. Ask for weed-free mulch, manure, compost, and soil. Read grass seed labels to make sure they don’t contain other crop seed.
5. If you have time (6 to 8 weeks BEFORE planting seeds), cover a weedy patch with landscape fabric, black plastic, or an old carpet. First, break up the top 4 to 8 inches of soil in your garden beds, rake it flat, and cover the soil. Then, avoid cultivating the soil to a depth greater than 2 inches. (Do this in fall, winter, or early spring when it’s not active gardening season.)
6. Once you’ve seeded, do not till a garden area if it’s filled with perennial weeds; you’ll only break up the underground tubers and spread weeds around.
7. Apply a layer of mulch! Weeds seeds have a harder time pushing through mulch, and mulch blocks sunlight
8. Water right around your plants; do not sprinkle your entire garden or you’re just watering your weeds.
9. In lawns, be careful not to over-fertilize or under-fertilize, as you’ll be promoting weed growth.
10. Establish a perimeter. Pay special attention to the area adjoining your flower beds, garden, natural area or lawn and establish a weed-free perimeter. Mow or mulch the area or pull or dig up weeds as they emerge. You’ll help to reduce the number of new weed seeds in the area you want to protect. Also, a good trimmer can make it easier to reach weeds along garden beds, posts, and tight spots.

Pay special attention to “perennial weeds” as identified in the list below. Perennial weeds (versus annuals) come back year after year and more difficult to control. You need dig up any roots, underground tubers, and rhizomes without leaving fragments behind. New weeds can grow from any pieces that break off and remain in the soil.

1. Cut off the emerged green part of the weed with your hoe or mower—repeating the process quickly each time it regrows. Without leaves needed for photosynthesis, the underground plant parts will become weakened and may eventually die.
2. If you dig out the weed, try to remove the taproot or as much as you can. You may be need to repeat several times.
3. When pulling out these weeds, wait until the soil is moist, and grasp low on the stem to avoid breaking it off.

With these techniques, you’ll soon find that you won’t spend much time weeding the following years!

13 Common Lawn and Garden Weeds

Below are some of the most common lawn and garden weeds. We have divided this list of weeds into two sections: 1) troublesome weeds, which compete with vegetables, fruits, and crops but may also have their own beneficial uses (in fact, many are edible plants or attract pollinators) and, 2) noxious weeds, which are so harmful to the ecology that they are prohibited or controlled by law on a federal or state level.

Remember: Only you decide what’s a weed and the consequences. For example, if you are trying to grow asparagus, you need to keep the bed weed-free or you will have a poor harvest. On the other hand, if you don’t mind your yard being taken over by dandelions, let it happen!

I. Troublesome Weeds

The following weeds are not noxious—but will spring up on their own in gardens and yards and are troublesome if not controlled. Again, you decide what is a weed. If you have these weeds amidst your vegetables and you want to keep them because of their nutritional content, just know that they will affect the yield of your intended harvest.

1. Crabgrass (Digitaria spp.)

Crabgrass is a low-growing, summer annual that spreads by seed and from rootings of nodes that lie on the soil. Undisturbed, it can grow to 2 feet tall.

This weed appears from mid-spring through summer when the ground is warm. It grows well under dry, hot conditions. As an annual, crabgrass dies at the end of each growing season—usually at the first frost in the fall—and it must produce new seeds every year.

How to Control Crabgrass
Fortunately, crabgrass is fairly easy to manage. Controlling crabgrass before it sets seed is important because the seeds can remain viable for at least 3 years in soil.

In the lawn, mowing regularly is often all you need to prevent crabgrass from flowering and producing seed. Most experts recommend that you mow your lawn to a height of 2 to 4 inches and that you mow frequently enough to keep it within that range.

Also, if you keep a lawn, be sure to select grass adapted to your location so that it’s a healthy, thick lawn. Crabgrass loves a poor lawn. Because seedling crabgrass isn’t very competitive, a vigorously growing turf will crowd out new seedlings. Perennial ryegrass is the best competition for crabgrass. It also provides some insect control, as it emits a natural poison that gives some small, damaging bugs the “flu.” Fertilizing is key and must be done in the spring and in the fall.

Many herbicides for crabgrass aren’t that effective. Avoid using chemical herbicides in vegetable gardens because of the variety of crops grown and planted there. In gardens, you easily can control crabgrass by mulching, hoeing, and hand pulling when the plants are young and before they set seed. You also can control this weed with solarization. Finally, crabgrass thrives in compacted lawns, so work on aerating the lawn and this will go a long way.

Mulching with wood products (e.g. wood chips or nuggets), composted yard waste, or synthetic landscape fabrics covered with mulch will reduce crabgrass in shrub beds and bedding plants and around trees by blocking sunlight needed for its germination, establishment, and growth. If crabgrass is germinating in the mulch, move it about with a rake to reduce seedling establishment. Hand-pull escaped crabgrass plants before they set seed.

Is Crabgrass Edible?
Technically, yes, but grasses are generally not the tastiest weeds out there! That said, crabgrass can be used as a forage crop for livestock and its seeds have historically been harvested as an edible grain.

2. Purslane (Portulaca oleracea)

Purslane is actually considered noxious in at least one U.S. state. Why is purslane, an annual succulent plant that’s edible, considered so troublesome? After all, it’s high in vitamins and even grown as a crop in some countries.

The answer goes back to the definition of weeds: Purslane can produce over 2,000,000 seeds PER PLANT ! It reproduces by tiny black seeds and stem fragments in late spring, and it also can reproduce vegetatively through its leaves, making it especially tough to eradicate. Many a gardener has hoed purslane one day only to see it growing at full strength the next. So, unless you only want to grow purslane, think about how to control it.

How to Control Purslane
In home landscapes and gardens, this summer weed is generally managed by hand-weeding. Keep an eye out for purslane! Pull out this weed as soon as you see it and destroy the plant; this weed can live in your soil for years!

Mulching is also helpful, especially in garden beds. To be effective, organic mulches should be at least 3 inches thick. Synthetic mulches (plastic or fabric mulch), which screen out light and provide a physical barrier to seedling development, also work well. Fabric mulches, which are porous and allow flow of water and air to roots, are preferred over plastics. Combinations of synthetic mulches with organic or rock mulches on top are commonly used in ornamental plantings.

Is Purslane Edible?
Yes, you can eat purslane when it’s young and tender (assuming you’re not using chemicals in your garden). It’s a nutritional powerhouse and a great addition to a salad or stir-fry. See the health benefits of purslane, as well as some delicious recipes.

3. Lambsquarters (Chenopodium album)

Another edible weed! Lambsquarters is a fast-growing summer annual which is very nutritious and delicious steamed or in salads or juiced. But treasure the tender baby lambsquarters or they will get huge and truly be a troublesome weed. This summer annual broadleaf weed is a big problem in gardens and farms with sugar beets, vegetable crops, and pulse crops such as dry edible beans, lentils, and chickpeas.

Lambsquarters is a very fast-growing annual with seeds that are small and light enough to be blown by the wind over short distances. The seeds can sometimes even survive for decades in the soil. Under favorable conditions, these weeds can establish themselves quickly and spread profusely.

How to Control Lambsquarters
This summertime weed rapidly removes moisture from soil, so remove it from unwanted areas as soon as possible! Cultivate lambsquarters out of your garden using a sharp hoe.

Is Lambsquarters Edible?
Yes, you can eat lambsquarters (assuming you’re not using chemicals in your garden). In fact, their leaves are quite high in beneficial nutrients! The young shoots and leaves can be eaten raw in any vegetable dish, or sauteed or steamed like spinach. See our natural health blogger’s post on Anytime Salad.

4. Pigweed (Amaranthus spp.)

Pigweed wins the title of most “problematic” annual weed. It has evolved traits that makes it a tough competitor, especially in broadleaf crops like soybeans and cotton.

An annual weed that reproduces by seeds, pigweed is characterized by its fleshly red taproot. This weed appears in late spring or early summer and likes warm weather.

How to Control Pigweed
Try to pull out this weed before it flowers!

Some weed seeds require light for germination and pigweed is one of those. To prevent pigweed in the future, cover your garden plot with a winter mulch.

Also, till very shallowly in the spring; only turning up a small amount of soil in order to keep those seeds buried. When you till, you may bring up some pigweed seed, so it’s best to mulch again. Cover the soil with five layers of wet newspaper and cover that with 3-6 inches of mulch.

Is Pigweed Edible?
Pigweed is also edible—though only when young and tender (and when taken from a pesticide-free area). In June, the young leaves of Amaranthus blitum or amaranth are abundant and should be eaten because of their high nutritional content. Vitamin-wise, these greens are packed like carrots or beets and can be delicious in a tossed salad. You can also cook them as you would spinach. Some Native Americans traditionally used the black seeds of this plant as a ground meal for baking.

5. Chickweed (Stellaria sp. and Cerastium spp.)

Common chickweed (Stellaria media) is a winter annual that grows in well-watered areas. It’s a reservoir for insect pests and plant viruses.

When growing without competition from other plants, common chickweed can produce approximately 800 seeds and takes up to 8 years to eradicate. Chickweed thrives in moist, cool areas, so it often gets started before spring crops can become competitive. For this reason, it can limit your vegetable harvest.

Common chickweed often forms dense mats and rarely grows higher than 2 inches. The flowers are small with five white petals. Common chickweed will grow in a wide range of soils, but does particularly well in neutral pH soils with high nitrogen. It doesn’t grow as well in low pH (acidic) soils.

How to Control Chickweed
Fortunately, annual chickweed is easier to control as long as you pull the weed when the plant is small and before it flowers. The challenge can be locating it during the short period between germination and flower production, so be sure to monitor closely and completely remove the weed so it doesn’t reroot.

Remember this is a “winter annual.” So, monitor the soil surface for chickweed seedlings throughout late fall and winter and then remove them by shallow cultivation or by hand pulling. By spring time, we would not recommend chemical controls for this winter annual.

Using a layer of organic mulch such as wood chips, at least two inches deep, will reduce the amount of weed seeds germinating by limiting light and serving as a physical barrier. Synthetic mulches such as landscape fabrics may also be used. In landscaped areas, they should be covered with an additional layer of mulch (rock or bark). Vegetable gardens can also utilize black plastic, both as mulch into which seeds or transplants are placed and also between rows.

Is Chickweed Edible?
Chickweed is edible. When young, the leaves, stems, and flowers can all be eaten either raw or cooked. It adds a delicate spinach-like taste to any dish. Chickweed can also be a tonic and made into a tea.

6. Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale)

Ah, we love much about dandelions with their bright yellow heads in the springtime. This perennial weed forms rosettes of leaves with yellow flower clusters rising from the center. Bees can also find dandelions helpful though this plant is not a preferred food (and a poor quality source of protein). If you care about bees: Yes, a lawn full of dandelions is better for bees than a weed-free lawn, but not nearly as good as a garden with a variety of plants and no dandelions.

In addition, in time, dandelions will also take over any habitat from your garden to your ornamentals to your grasses. Not only do dandelions have wind-borne seed, but they also reproduce vegetatively thanks to large tap roots. So unless you cut the root deep into the soil, you can rest assured the plant will reemerge.

How to Control Dandelions
Removing mature dandelions by hand-pulling or hoeing is often futile (unless done repeatedly over a long period of time) because of the deep tap root system of established plants. It’s best to pull young dandelions by grasping them firmly by their base and wiggling gently, as you must dislodge their deep taproot from the soil. Alternatively, use a hand trowel to dig them out. Try to remove the whole dandelion root at once, as any piece left in the ground will probably grow back.

If you keep a lawn, a vigorous (and competitive) lawn will slow down dandelion infestation. Dense turfgrass and ornamentals shade the soil surface, reducing the establishment of new dandelion seedlings. Many broadleaf weeds may be controlled with mowing, but this is NOT true of dandelion. Because it grows from a basal rosette that is lower than a mower blade can reach, mowing will have no effect on control.

For a garden bed, mulches of wood chips or bark are effective if they are maintained at a depth of least 3 inches deep (and replaced over time). Mulching with landscape fabrics can be particularly effective for controlling seedlings, reducing the amount of light that is able to reach the soil. Use a polypropylene or polyester fabric or black polyethylene (plastic tarp) to block all plant growth.

Solitary new dandelion plants along fence rows, roadsides, flower beds, and in turfgrass should be grubbed out (removed by digging out the entire plant, taproot and all) before they produce seed. Dandelion knives and similar specialized tools are available for removing individual weeds and their roots while minimizing soil disturbance. Monitor the area for several months to make sure that removal of the taproot was complete.

Are Dandelions Edible?
Yes! If you cut the leaves of this perennial when they are young, you can enjoy tender greens in a salad. The wild ones in the spring are amazing! The flowers, too, can be eaten raw or fried, or used to make dandelion wine. Here are a few dandelion recipes to try: Dandelion Recipes. Be sure to leave plenty of dandelions for pollinators.

7. Shepherd’s Purse (Capsella bursa-pastoris)

Shepherd’s purse is actually a Brassica and part of the Mustard family along with cabbage. This flowering annual produces heart-shaped seedpods after flowering. It likes cool weather and its yellowish-brown seeds are long-lived in the ground.

How to Control Shepherd’s Purse
Keep an eye out for its distinct leaves and pull out this annual weed by hand before it seeds. Be sure to remove the entire root.

Is Shepherd’s Purse Edible?
The immature heart-shaped seedpods of shepherd’s purse have a peppery taste and can be used as garnish in moderation. Shepherd’s Purse also has a long history as a natural remedy for healing. Note: The leaves and mature seeds may cause indigestion and should not be consumed.

8. Creeping Charlie (Glechoma hederacea)

Creeping Charlie (ground ivy) and wild violet are common in shady lawns. Native to Europe, this perennial plant grows low to the ground in a vining habit, killing everything else around it. The plant has bright green leaves with scalloped edges on creeping stems (called stolons) that grow along the ground.

The reason Creeping Charlie is so challenging is the way it spreads—by both seeds and its creeping stems. If you try to dig it out and leave behind a fragment of rhizome (root), even a tiny piece can grow up as a new plant!

How to Control Creeping Charlie

• Improve turf density by seeding grasses in shady areas which will help to limit this weed from spreading.
• Also, make sure to grow the most suitable type of turfgrass for the location (e.g., plant shade tolerant turfgrass varieties under trees).
• Improve soil drainage or water less frequently to dry the soil.
• Mow regularly (to a height of 2 to 3½ inches), fertilizing and watering appropriately, and overseeding in the fall.
• Pull out Creeping Charlie by hand if you only see a plant or two here or there. Try to pull the weed without breaking it and over time it may give up.

In heavily infested areas, the extensive spreading stems of creeping Charlie can be difficult to completely remove. If you have mats of weed, smother with a barrier of newspaper, tarp, or cardboard that will block all sunlight for at least a week. Once plants are pulled, make sure to dispose of the plants in such a way that they cannot re-root. Common herbicides do not work.

Is Creeping Charlie Edible?
Prior to the mass cultivation of hops, Creeping Charlie was historically used in the brewing process of beer. As a member of the mint family, it has a slightly minty flavor and is often used by medical herbalists.

Noxious Weeds:

The noxious weeds (on federal and/or state level) on this list include field bindweed, quackgrass, Canada thistle, yellow nutsedge, and buckhorn plantain. There are other noxious weeds out there that are also problematic, such as Johnsongrass, but the ones listed here tend to be the most common.

9. Quackgrass (Elytrigia repens)

Quackgrass is a creeping, persistent perennial grass that reproduces by seeds. Its long, jointed, straw-colored rhizomes form a heavy mat in soil, from which new shoots may also appear.

How to Control Quackgrass
Try to dig out this fast-growing grass as soon as you see it in your garden, being sure to dig up the entirety of the plant (including the roots). Dispose of in your waste bin rather than the compost pile, as it will likely continue to grow in the latter!

Is Quackgrass Edible?
Not particularly.

10. Canada Thistle (Cirsium arvense)

Canada thistle is an aggressive, creeping perennial weed from Eurasia (despite its name). It infests crops, pastures, and non-crop areas like ditch banks and roadside. Canada thistle reduces forage consumption in pastures and rangeland because cattle typically will not graze near infestations.

This weed reproduces by seed and whitish, creeping rootstocks which send up new shoots every 8 to 12 inches. Plants reach 2 to 4 feet tall, grow in colonies, and reproduce asexually from rhizomatous roots (any part of the root system may give rise to new plants) or sexually from wind-blown seed.

The plant emerges from its roots in mid- to late spring and forms rosettes. Then, it will send up shoots every 8 to 12 inches. You may spots its purple flowers in July and August.

How to Control Canada Thistle
Canada thistle is difficult to control because its extensive and deep root system allows it to easily recover from control attempts. Horizontal roots may extend outward 15 feet or more and vertical roots may grow 6 to 15 feet deep! Plus, seeds may retain viability 4+ years in the soil.

The first plants need to be destroyed by pulling or hoeing before they become securely rooted. Look for Canada thistle above ground in early spring.

If Canada thistle becomes rooted, the best control is to stress the plant and force it to use stored root nutrients. It’s at its weakest during the flowering stage in summertime; this is a good time to begin cultivation and destroy the roots and rootstock. One season of cultivation followed by a season of growing competitive crops such as winter rye, will go a long way toward eradication.

An approved herbicide, applied for two years in a heavily thistle-infested area, is an effective and limited control. Usually, a combination of techniques is needed. Consult with your local cooperative extension office.

Is Canada Thistle Edible?
Believe it or not, Canada thistle is in fact edible—with some preparation required, of course. After the spines are meticulously removed, the leaves can be prepared like spinach. The stems are the most prized part, though their bristled outsides must be peeled first. Be sure to wear gloves!

11. Bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis)

Field bindweed is a hardy perennial vine that has been given many names, including perennial or wild morning-glory and creeping jenny. This noxious weed sprouts in late spring and becomes a huge problem in warm weather, when it spreads ruthlessly.

Note: Bindweed is NOT the same as the annual morning-glory (in the genus Ipomea) which has a larger (2-inch wide), showier flower and heart-shaped leaves.

An invasive from Eurasia, field bindweed is one of the most persistent weeds. The fast-growing root system grows right through the roots of other plants! And its roots are found to depths of 14 feet! Lateral roots form secondary vertical roots, anchoring the plant in place. A single field bindweed plant can spread radially more than 10 feet in a growing season. This extensive underground network allows for overwintering without foliage, and it can persist for up to 50 years in the soil.

How to Control Bindweed
Unfortunately, tilling aids bindweed’s spread. Fragments of vertical roots and rhizomes as short as 2 inches can form new plants! The best control is prevention or early intervention. Seedlings of field bindweed must be removed before they become perennial plants within 3 to 4 weeks of germination. After that, perennial buds are formed and, by summer, it’s almost impossible to get all the roots.

Remember that each fragment of root will grow into a new plant, so use a garden fork to carefully pull out the entire root, including soil. Since bindweed grows through the roots of other plants, you may also need to lift your other perennials and plants!

Not everyone has a year to let a garden go fallow, but the easiest way to kill bindweed organically is to smother it from light with weed control fabric, black plastic, or old carpet; ensure that the edges of the covering overlap. Once the covering is removed, new bindweed plants might germinate from seed in the soil; monitor the site for new seedlings and hand-weed as needed.

Sometimes this perennial weed can only be killed with herbicides; this is more applicable to fields versus small home gardens. Speak to your local cooperative extension.

Is Bindweed Edible?
No. All parts of the bindweed plant are poisonous. Do not ingest.

12. Nutsedge (Cyperus spp.)

Nutsedges are perennial weeds that superficially resemble grasses, but they are thicker and stiffer. Their leaves are arranged in sets of three from their base instead of sets of two as you would find in grass leaves. They are among the most problematic weeds for vegetable crops and can greatly reduce harvest yields. Yellow nutsedge has light brown flowers and seeds, while purple nutsedge flowers have a reddish tinge and the seeds are dark brown or black.

How to Control Nutsedge
If you have nutsedge, it’s often an indication that your soil drainage is poor or waterlogged. However, once nutsedge is established, it’s very difficult to control.

The best approach is to prevent establishment of the weed in the first place. Remove small plants before they develop tubers. Tubers are key to nutsedge survival. If you can limit the production of tubers, you’ll eventually control the nutsedge itself. Most herbicides aren’t effective against tubers.

Also, eliminate the wet conditions that favor nutsedge growth. Use mulches in landscape beds. Landscape fabrics are the best mulch for sedges because the sharp leaves of nutsedge can find their way through other mulches.

Is Nutsedge Edible?
Dating back to ancient Egypt, yellow nutsedge has historically been harvested for its tubers, which have a sweet, nutty flavor. Purple nutsedge tubers are also edible, but have a less pleasant, bitter taste.

13. Buckhorn Plantain (Plantago lanceolata)

Buckhorn plantain (also called English plantain or narrow-leaved plantain) is a common perennial weed most often seen in pastures, meadows, and lawns. This narrow-leafed weed reproduces and spreads by seeds.

How to Control Buckhorn Plantain
Buckhorn plantain is low-growing, which makes it difficult to remove by hand. This plant’s long taproot makes it drought-tolerant and difficult to control, too.

So, to remove this weed, be diligent about pulling up young plants and destroying it before the plants go to seed. Learn how to scout and recognize young plants to help prevent early introductions from becoming persistent problems.

The best control is also preventative: grow a lush stand of plants so the surface of the soil is shaded and prevents new seeds from getting established. As a last resort, there are approved herbicides effective on buckhorn plantain to spray in the fall. Speak to your local cooperative extension.

Is Buckhorn Plantain Edible?
Yes, this weed is edible, especially when the leaves are young and tender. Enjoy it raw, steamed, boiled, or sauteed.

Learn More About Weeds

To learn more about combating common garden weeds, see Weed Control Techniques, as well as our mulching guide.

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27 Common Types of Weeds with Names and Picture Identification

Let’s face it, weeds can cause garden problems for gardeners. While some types of weeds can be nice looking, they can also be invasive. It can be difficult to identify each type of weed and prevent them from taking over your entire garden. Keep in mind that many weeds are good for pollinators, so it may be worth relocating them to another area, or leaving them be. In this article, we help you identify the most common types of weeds, with photos of each.

By Jason Wilson Last updated: October 8, 2023 | 15 min read

Weeds are essentially just plants growing where they are not wanted or needed. They can be cause problems gardens when they grow wild and compete with the plants you’ve worked hard to plant. Many types of weeds can spread from plant to plant, reproducing quickly and forming a large patch very quickly.

Gardeners often face the problem of weeds in their yards and gardens. It’s a delicate line to balance, as many weeds are actually good for local pollinators. While there are dozens upon dozens of different types of weeds, some more difficult to prevent. There are also less invasive options, which include relocating the plant to another area.

This article contains pictures and descriptions of some of the most common types of weeds you may find in your garden. It’s important to remember that if you plan to remove them, plan to do so with the least amount of impact to pollinators in your area.

Asiatic Bittersweet

Scientific name: Celastrus orbiculatus

Asiatic bittersweet is a perennial weed that has small, orange berries. Round yellow fruits and red berries can identify it. it’s quite invasive and can cause major problems for both homes and garden spaces. Keep in mind we are not referring tot he Amrican bittersweet, which is native to the United States. The introduced Asiatic Bittersweet is invasive, and very difficult to prevent from coming back.

Asiatic bittersweet prefers areas with thin or no vegetation cover, such as roadsides or abandoned farmlands. It can adapt to most habitats but is more common in moist or wet soils on sunny sites. These perennial plants thrive in lawns and sports fields; mature vines may reach four inches in diameter.

The bitter-tasting leaves are pointed, oval, and grow about two inches long. Once established, these weeds prove challenging to remove, making it better to use preventive measures in areas you plan to succeed.

Bindweed

Scientific name: Convolvulus arvenis

Bindweed is a perennial weed identified by its bright green, hairless stems and arrowhead-shaped leaves with scalloped edges. Flowers are white and appear in clusters near the middle of the plant.

Bindweed grows very low and forms dense mats in lawns and pastures. It thrives in poorly drained clay soil often found along fence rows, roadsides, and fields with exposed subsoils.

Bindweed can grow through the tiniest of cracks or seams in the pavement; therefore, it can be challenging to kill. Bindweed also has an extensive root system that contains many perennial buds (located at the nodes of the roots).

These buds allow it to regenerate any broken pieces of the primary root. Bindweed has thin thread-like vines that wrap themselves tightly around plants or other upward objects.

Control Bindweed by boiling water and pouring the hot water into infested areas. Alternatively, you can repeatedly prune the vines back to the ground as a control measure. These methods are very destructive, so you can use them without valuable plants to save.

Canada Thistle

Scientific name: Cirsium arvense

Canada Thistle is a perennial weed that spreads by seed. It has its origins in Europe but was introduced to America in the 16th Century, among other agricultural shipments. Thistle is very common and is identifiable as a weed by its purple spiky flowers.

In general, the leaves are lobed and form an arrow-like shape. The stem is prickly, and the plant has a very hairy appearance. Seeds are shaped like dandelion seed heads but are more significant.

Canada Thistle usually appears in open overgrazed areas by livestock or areas tilled repeatedly to cultivate other weeds. You’ll also find these weeds along river banks, forest openings, roadsides, and gardens.

Mowing it into the soil before planting will help prevent infestation. You can also use a pair of scissors and snip off the weed at the base if you’re working on a small area. Uprooting is ineffective in controlling this weed as the root can snap in half and regrow. The roots reach deep into the earth, and even a tiny portion of it can regenerate the plant.

Remember to wait until the weed has emerged before treating, or you may kill surrounding desirable grasses. Finally, it is always best to plant in areas with past problems with this weed type to prevent future infestation altogether.

Chickweed

Scientific name: Stellaria media

Chickweed is a low-growing winter weed that can establish in cool weather and cause damage to crops early in the growing season. There are two species of Chickweed, namely the Common Chickweed and Sticky Chickweed. This weed is also a common problem for landscape and turf grasses.

Chickweed germinates when soil temperatures reach between 40 degrees F and 50 degrees F, but growth slows as soil temperatures reach 60 degrees F. It thrives in moist soils and low-fertility environments.

Chickweed is very difficult to control due to its spreading capabilities. It is best handled by hand-pulling or cultivation when young and then mulching the area after the weed has died. Remove this weed from your garden as it carries viruses that infect tomatoes and other valuable crops.

Clovers

Scientific name: Trifolium repens

Clovers are perennial weeds easily identified by their trifoliate leaves. They flower during late summer and early fall, producing white or pink flowers.

Clovers spread quickly and prefer areas with thin or no vegetation cover, such as cultivated fields or abandoned farmlands. They creep along the ground and thrive in nitrogen-starved soil. Identifying this weed on your lawn may indicate poorly supplied nitrogen into the soil.

Once established, it is challenging to eliminate, so preventive measures are best with these types of weeds. Fertilize your lawn to ensure effective eradication. Alternatively, manually uproot the whole plant by hand.

Crabgrass

Scientific name: Digitaria sanguinalis

Crabgrass is an annual weed in the Digitaria family, with over thirty listed species common throughout the country.

Crabgrass has smooth stems with circular grooves on them. The leaves are long and thin, resemble blades of grass, and have notches at their base where they attach to the stem. The leaves are usually yellowish-green to lime green in color, making them reasonably easy to spot.

Crabgrass is very difficult to control once it has germinated. The weed thrives in moist soil conditions, which causes its seeds to germinate quickly after the surface breaks by cultivating or rainfall.

Crabgrass is easy to identify, and to pull once you’ve located it around your garden or yard. Proper mowing also helps to eradicate this weed. In addition, remember not to overwater your lawn as moist conditions are perfect for crabgrass germination.

Curly Dock

Scientific name: Rumex crispus

Curly dock is a perennial weed that prefers moistened soils. They grow in pastures, roadsides, and crop fields.

Curly docks have a membranous sheath and bulging stem joints. These leaves grow two to five feet in length with wavy edges. Flowers of curly dock appear in clusters on stalks which develop at the top of the leaves.

The best way to control the Curly dock is by mowing down the area regularly. Because curly dock is a native plant, controlling by hand digging can be difficult. If not controlled, this weed becomes a menace in the lawn, especially if left to go to seed.

Dodder Weeds

Scientific name: Cuscuta campestris

Dodder is an annual weed that is difficult to control and highly damaging to crops. The weed is also known as “dodders” because the leaves of this plant are thread-like, and it has vining stems that resemble worms.

It is a parasitic plant that likes to grow in moist, wet conditions. Dodder forms large colonies that can wipe out crops such as:

You can control this weed by hand removal and pruning. Large infestations may require other alternatives if you’ve decided there’s no way you’d like to keep this plant around your yard. But typically removing it, and repeated mowing or plant removal in the area can successfully deal with this plant.

Green Foxtail

Scientific name: Setaria viridis

Green Foxtail is an annual grass weed. It is a ubiquitous weed found in lawns, crop fields, landscapes, and even gardens throughout the United States.

Green Foxtail grows to three inches high with leaves that are half an inch wide. The seed head of this weed appears whip-like, with many small bristles which have dark green tips. It has fibrous roots and a seed head that looks similar to a foxtail, hence the name.

We don’t recommend using herbicides for foxtail (or any weed for that matter). The general use of herbicides can be more damaging than beneficial and might ruin useful plants and grasses. But it’s important to remove foxtail from your yard and garden, especially if you have pets.

Ground Ivy

Scientific name: Glechoma hederacea

Ground Ivy is a perennial broadleaf weed found in woodlands and damp ground. It is a very aggressive growing plant that spreads across the land and harms existing valuable plants. Its low-growing properties give it the “ground ivy” name.

Since it lives in low-lying areas, it does well with water exposure, allowing seeds to disperse quickly. Some petals can be purple or white, and pale spots are often visible.

Ground Ivy often appears in shady areas such as mulched flower beds and around trees and shrubs. You can control this weed by hand, but just note that it can be difficult to remove once fully grown. It’s best to identify and remove it early in the life cycle if you’ve decided not to keep it in your yard or garden.

Horsetail Weed

Scientific name: Equisetum arvense

Horsetail Weed is a perennial weed with leaves typically found growing in whorls. Its thin, greenish branches can identify it. The horsetail spreads quickly to form a stout foliage carpet that smothers other plants.

Horsetail Weed prefers moist or wet soils, such as ditches or low-lying spots. It can adapt to most habitats but is more common in sunny areas with rich soils. This weed is poisonous to animals, especially if consumed in incredible amounts.

Japanese Knotweed

Scientific name: Fallopia japonica

Japanese Knotweed is a perennial shrub-like weed native to Eastern Asia. This plant can grow up to six inches and has small green flowers. The stem of this plant is hollow, reddish-brown, and covered in spots. Leaves are green and lance-shaped with serrated edges. The plant produces flowers in whitish clusters and roots that grow six inches deep.

Japanese Knotweed usually appears after soil disturbance like tillage or heavy foot traffic where the soil moves to the surface (a common problem around sidewalks). You’ll also find this weed along stream banks and planted landscapes.

Preparing your soil for planting by adding grass seed will help prevent Knotweed infestation. This weed is easy to identify and is usually best served by hand-pulling.

Knapweed

Scientific name: Centaurea

Knapweed is a perennial weed that infests vegetable gardens and native grasses. The significant knapweed types include:

• Spotted Knapweed
• Yellow Starthistle
• Russian Knapweed

Knapweed prefers areas such as roadsides, ditches, and highways. It can adapt to most habitats and is extremely difficult to eliminate once established.

Digging out Knapweed can be difficult due to its extensive roots, but cultivating groundcover can help crowd it out over. Many people consider Knapweed edible and consumed raw, steamed, or boiled.

Lambsquarters

Scientific name: Chenopodium album

Lambsquarters is an annual weed that harbors viral diseases. This weed is commonly found in hayfields and along streams and railroad tracks. It can grow two feet tall and has grayish-green leaves with a lancet-shaped stem.

Lambsquarters are also edible and nutritious. If you want to try Lambsquarters, take advantage of them when they’re young, not developing hard ragged edges that get more bitter with age.

Regularly mowing your land and consistently aerating the soil helps eradicate this weed. Follow a regular watering and fertilizing of the land to maintain good health in the ground.

Nutsedge Weeds

Scientific name: Cyperus rotundus

Nutsedge is a perennial weed that spreads by seed and rhizomes (horizontal shoots that grow along the soil’s surface). This weed loves water and can easily be mistaken for a young blade of grass.

Nutsedge has a V-shaped stem that is dark green. This weed can grow to have a diameter of six inches or more. You may find it growing along fences, driveways, sidewalks, grassy areas, and around plants and trees.

Once nutsedge matures, it will release tiny greenish-yellow triangular seeds into surface cracks in walkways and driveways. These weeds thrive best in moist soil but also tolerate dry soils. They are also called “nutgrasses” due to their resemblance to grasses.

Orange Jewelweed

Scientific name: Impatiens capensis

The Orange Jewelweed is an annual plant with bright golden-orange flowers and reddish splotches. The weed spreads very quickly as it is adapted to pollination by bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.

Orange Jewelweed thrives in moist areas of lawns and recently disturbed plants. This weed is also commonly referred to as the “spotted-touch-me-not” because of the seed pods that pop up at a touch. It’s an easily identifiable weed by its orange flowers.

Oxalis

Scientific name: Oxalidaceae

Oxalis is a genus of many species in the family Oxalidaceae. It may also be called wood sorrel, sour grass, and shamrock. Some species are prevalent, while others are rare endemics. It often grows in lawns and cultivated fields, especially in recent clearings.

The leaves are heart-like in shape. It can be distinguished from clover by its four-petaled flowers that form a heart shape. It spreads by seed and corms (bulbs). This weed’s flowers are yellow, and easily identifiable. Oxalis spreads quickly and can choke out other plants in a garden. They’re known as shamrock weed because their three oval leaves look like clovers.

Oxalis is difficult to control because it can reproduce from underground corms. We prefer not to treat with a herbicide due to additional damage it can cause to native plant species. The recommended alternative is mowing over several weeks to kill off oxalis and unwanted weeds. Note that this can harm your lawn’s soil and make it harder for grass to grow back quickly.

Pull up Oxalis roots before they spread by hand or use a sharp hoe to cut them off near their base. If you need to dispose of these weeds, place them into a garbage bag and seal tightly with tape to prevent accidental poisoning from their alkaloids.

Pigweed

Scientific name: Amaranthus

Also known as redroot pigweed, wild spinach, and green amaranth, pigweed is a common weed found all over the USA. They have large oval leaves and round seed pods that produce thousands of seeds. They turn brownish-red and split open when ripe, revealing numerous tiny black seeds. The flowers are usually purplish-pink with darker pink stripes running down them.

Pigweed is most common in warmer areas with total sun exposure. They compete vigorously with crops and reproduce by prolific seeding. They survive by spreading their roots underground. The pigweed leaves are edible, and you can include them in your salad.

Plantain Plants

Scientific name: Plantago

Plantains are broadleaf weeds that are native to Europe. Plantains usually appear in early spring when the soil begins to warm up. There are two species of Plantain plant. These are:

The leaves of these two perennial weeds are easily distinguishable. Ribwort Plantains have ribbed, lance-shaped leaves, while broadleaf plantains have smooth, oval leaves. Plantain plants thrive on compacted soil. The key to eradicating these weeds is keeping your soil healthy and adequately aerated.

They commonly grow in lawns after cultivation and along roadsides where soil disturbance occurs. Plantains are not deep-rooted perennials and are easily controlled with shallow cultivation around the plant’s base, killing it. Chemicals are also very effective against plantains when applied at the right time.

Poison Sumac

Scientific name: Toxicodendron vernix

Poison Sumac is a tall, woody shrub that forms dense thickets in swamps and wet woods. You can quickly identify it during the winter months due to its bare stems marked with small red spots. The leaves are arranged oppositely on the stem and have prominent veins.

Poison Sumac grows throughout the United States near water sources, such as swamp borders or lowlands where water stands for several days. However, in rare cases, you may find the weed in the western states such as Texas.

Poison Sumac has an oily, white resin called urushiol throughout the plant. Urushiol acts as a toxin to humans and animals when it comes in contact with the skin or eyes. It would help if you avoided any plants with these characteristics until you were sure of their identification.

If you think you have come in contact with Poison Ivy or any other toxic plant, immediately wash your skin with soap and cold water to remove the urushiol oils. If you experience an allergic reaction to the poison ivy oils, see your doctor immediately.

You can control Poison Sumac by cutting or mowing down its stems when they are young and weak. The sooner you catch it, though, the better as mature Poison Sumac trees require professional removal.

Purslane

Scientific name: Portulaca oleracea

Purslane is an annual herbaceous weed with succulent leaves and stems. This common weed is often found in lawns and among garden plants. Purslane looks similar to dandelions and can differ by the leaves, which are oval-shaped and broadest near the rounded tip. The leaves are attached to their purplish-green stems.

The most successful way to get rid of purslane is to pull up all visible roots using hand tools like trowels or hoes rather than relying on herbicides. Do not let purslane go to seed because it will rapidly spread once you have established a colony.

Quackgrass

Scientific name: Elymus repens

A common turfgrass weed that also grows in non-turf areas, Quackgrass can be identified by its long leaves and coarse appearance. Its leaves are more comprehensive than the usual law grasses with rough grass blades.

The plant’s root system is highly developed and deep, spreading quickly in lawns. A single plant can have thick roots extending underground. The best way to avoid this weed is by taking preventive measures such as regular lawn mowing.

Ragweed

Scientific name: Ambrosia artemisiifolia

Ragweed is a widespread weed found throughout the country. It is a source of allergies that affect many people, especially in the fall.

Ragweed grows upright and has a large, deep taproot. This plant is recognizably different from other weeds by its flowers with a yellowish appearance. Ragweed is also recognizable by its hairy leaves.

Ragweed has grown to be an immensely prevalent weed species often found in lawns and gardens. It’s considered an invasive weed because it has no known natural predators and its seeds stay dormant for years.

The most successful way to deal with ragweed is by regularly mowing your lawn or piece of land. Cultivate and hoe the soil constantly to eradicate any dormant ragweeds.

Shepherd’s Purse

Scientific name: Capsella bursa-pastoris

This low-growing plant is a quick-growing plant that spreads rapidly and is difficult to eradicate. Though the lifespan lasts four to six weeks, the seeds can survive for years in fields, making it difficult to control through manual removal alone.

The plant grows three to six inches long and prefers low soil temperatures. This is not a difficult weed to manage, or prevent from growing if it’s become a problem. Regularly pull the weeds, and mow over the area for best results.

Smooth Brome

Scientific name: Bromus inermis

Smooth Brome is a perennial weed identified by its long, smooth leaves. It grows in almost any climate, is considered a major invasive species, and chokes native plant life.

If you’re unsure whether you have Smooth Brome, look for its compact seed heads that stay on top of the stems and are about four to six inches long. Smooth Brome is good forage for livestock. This weed is not tolerant to floods, and you can eradicate it much more efficiently by spot treating with a more selective herbicide.

Stinging Nettle

Scientific name: Urtica dioica

Stinging Nettle is a perennial weed that is part of the Urticaceae family. The leaves of the Bitter Nettle plant form in pairs across from each other, with a bigger leaf at the end of each pair.

These leaves are oval, serrated, with saw-like edges, and are smooth to touch and grow to about four to ten inches. In addition, the fine hairs on the leaves contain irritating compounds produced when the plant comes into contact with the skin.

Stinging Nettle usually appears after over-fertilizing your lawn or dumping yard waste on the soil; it then spreads into neighboring areas via stolons that root at the nodes along its length.

The best route for removing and controlling stinging nettle control is uprooting by hand. Since this weed can be quite painful to touch, attempts at removing it by hand should only occur with gloves on.

Tall Fescue

Scientific name: Festuca arundinacea

You may have seen tall fescue amongst grass seeds that you can plant in your yard. But tall fescue, is in fact, a weed. It’s a perennial weed that has a bunch-like growth pattern. It produces a dense root mass that makes it extremely hard to uproot from the ground.

Fescue lacks the essential nutrients required by livestock to grow healthy and reproduce. Because the fungus produces toxins on the strands of Fescue, it is harmful to the plant’s health. You can control these weeds by digging seedlings in the early stages of growth.

Final Thoughts

Weeds can cause various problems in agricultural and landscape settings. They compete with desirable plants for nutrients, water, and sunlight and reduce crop yields. In gardens, weeds reduce property aesthetics by altering the color palette and attracting unwanted insects.

Prevention is always a better strategy than control. When establishing a new planting area, consider using a weed-free growing medium and mulch to reduce the likelihood of weeds taking hold in your garden or landscape.