How to Grow and Care for Epiphyllum (Orchid Cacti)

If your plant is getting too much light, it can cause wilted growth and yellowing. Leggy, delicate growth can be a result of too little light.

Orchid Cactus Care

Big, cup-shaped blooms in gorgeous colors make orchid cactus a joy to grow. Show it off in a hanging basket and allow the long stems to cascade over the pot.

Orchid cactus stems are broad and flat with serrated edges. They’ll grow to 2 ft (60 cm) long, and about 2 in (5 cm) wide. Not very showy, but you can count on them to burst into bloom every spring.

Flowers emerge at the ends of the stems, and can be 4-8 in (10-20 cm) wide. Most Epiphyllum grown today are hybrids and may be pink, red, white, yellow, orange, purple or bicolored. Give your tropical cactus plenty of light and you’ll enjoy months of blooms.

Pruning Orchid Cactus

You won’t need to prune unless you want to control its size. The best time to prune it back is shortly after it stops flowering. Use sharp, clean pruning shears to prevent tearing the stems.

Don’t toss out those orchid cactus cuttings! Propagate them to get more of these captivating plants. (See “Propagation” below.)

Wondering Whether to Repot. or Not?

Repot every 2-3 years, moving up to a pot 1 size larger. Orchid cactus prefers to be slightly pot-bound and blooms best this way. Never repot while it’s blooming, which will cause its buds and blooms to drop.

Large plants can be top-dressed instead by adding a layer of fresh potting mix. Allow an inch or so (about 2.5 cm) of space from the rim of the container so soil won’t spill out while watering.

How to Make Orchid Cactus Bloom

Growing this flowering cactus is easy, but a few things you can do will help it to bloom:

• Give it a winter rest. A cool, dry rest for about 8-10 weeks in winter are needed for the plant to set buds. Water sparingly and stop fertilizing during this time.
• Shed some light. Keep your orchid cactus in bright, indirect light year-round. If you move it outdoors for the summer, keep the plant shaded from direct sunlight.
• Feed it. High-phosphorus fertilizer will encourage more blooms. Start feeding in early spring and continue through fall.
• Leave it alone. Once buds appear, keep the plant in the same location. Changes in light and temperature by moving it around will cause it to drop its buds and flowers. Also keep it away from drafty areas like doorways and heat/AC vents.

Epiphyllum oxypetalum (shown here) is among the most popular species of this genus. It bears white, fragrant flowers that bloom for one night only — then wither by morning. If you sneak up on it during the night, you’ll catch it in full bloom.

Orchid Cactus Problems and Solutions

Dropped flower buds? Once buds set, don’t move the plant around. Changes in light will likely cause flower buds to fall off. Don’t worry, though — these tropical hybrids are long-lived and with good care, will bloom beautifully when they get what they want.

Something bugging your plant? Check for scale insects and mealybugs that may attack this plant. Treat any infestation right away and isolate an affected plant to prevent pests from moving on to your other houseplants.

Limp stems that turn blackish at the base is stem rot, caused by overwatering. You can cut off any rotted stems at soil-level.

Orchid Cactus Care Tips

Origin: Central America hybrids

Height: To 2 ft (60 cm)

Light: Bright light, but no direct sunlight. Insufficient light causes spindly growth and few blooms.

Water: Keep the soil moist spring through fall, while plant is growing. In winter, water sparingly until new growth begins in spring. Never allow it to dry out. Shriveled, limp stems are a sign the soil is too dry. Overwatering leads to stem rot; cut off any damaged stems.

Humidity: Moderate indoor (about 40-50% relative humidity). Stand the pot on a dish of wet pebbles to boost humidity, if necessary . If your home is extremely dry, the best way to raise humidity is with a cool-mist room humidifier.

Temperature: Average room temperatures 65-75°F/18-24°C. To set flower buds, the plant needs 8-10 weeks of cool 60-65°F/16-18°C days and 45-55°F/7-13°C nights in winter.

Soil: Mix 1 part peat moss-based potting mix and 1 part perlite for faster drainage.

Fertilizer: Feed every 2 weeks from early spring through fall with a high-phosphorus water-soluble fertilizer. Don’t feed during the winter.

Propagation: Detach 4-6 in (10-15 cm) stem sections in spring, allow cut to dry (callous) for a few days, then place cut end upright in lightly moist potting mix. Keep cuttings at room temperature (65-75°F/18-24°C). Stem cuttings root easily in about 4-6 weeks.

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How to Grow and Care for Epiphyllum (Orchid Cacti)

Gemma Johnstone is a gardening expert who has written 120-plus articles for The Spruce covering how to care for a large variety of plants from all over the world. She’s traveled all over Europe, living now in Italy.

Kathleen Miller is a highly-regarded Master Gardener and horticulturist with over 30 years of experience in organic gardening, farming, and landscape design. She founded Gaia’s Farm and Gardens, a working sustainable permaculture farm, and writes for Gaia Grows, a local newspaper column.

Epiphyllum is a genus of tropical succulents often referred to as orchid cacti or climbing cacti. There are over a dozen species and many associated hybrids of varying shapes and sizes. They usually have long, flat, non-spiny, and trailing stems. With the right care, they showcase bright, large, fragrant, and night-blooming flowers in the spring or summer. In the wild, these mostly epiphytic plants grow on branches or trunks of trees rather than developing roots in the ground. They absorb the moisture and nutrients they need from the humid environment around them.

In a garden landscape, the trailing stems of orchid cacti look good in hanging baskets. Despite their common name, they don’t like full sun and dry air like normal cacti species. Epiphyllums do best in warm, humid, and shady spots that replicate their tropical forest natural habitat. This makes them a good choice as an easy-to-grow, slow-growing bathroom plant.

Light

Orchid cacti thrive in filtered sunlight, which mimic the light conditions they receive in their natural tropical forest habitat. A few hours of full morning sun should be fine, but keep them out of full midday sun to avoid scorching or white scabbing. Outdoors, growing in a hanging basket in the shade of a tree works well.

Don’t position your epiphyllum in a room where lights are kept on for long periods after sundown, as this can impact flowering the following year.

If your plant is getting too much light, it can cause wilted growth and yellowing. Leggy, delicate growth can be a result of too little light.

Soil

Your epiphyllum shouldn’t be grown directly in the ground. Normal soil is overly compact and the roots won’t cope which will result in the death of the plant. Stick with a loose, fast-draining potting mix with additional light and porous materials to promote drainage. An azalea mix with added perlite, bark, cocoa chips, or pumice can work well.

Water

Getting the balance right with water is the key to successful growth. Unlike their traditional cacti relatives, orchid cacti need regular watering during the growing season. The potting mix should be moist but not soggy. Ideally, you want the top 1/3 of the potting mix to dry out before rewatering. In winter, reduce watering and move the plant to a cooler location. This will help produce healthy, large flowers the next season. Using distilled or filtered water instead of tap water is beneficial for these sensitive plants.

Branch dieback or rust spotting can be an issue if your soil is too wet, especially when temperatures are on the low side. If this becomes a problem, remove the diseased branches, repot in a dry and fast-draining mix, and be more conservative with your watering.

Temperature and Humidity

If grown outdoors, it’s best to grow epiphyllum in pots or hanging baskets, so you can move these tender plants indoors when the temperatures drop. They won’t survive in frosty conditions or when temperatures drop below 32 degrees Fahrenheit.

If you keep your orchid cactus indoors, it might need a different location in the winter from during the growing season. From spring to autumn, temperatures up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit are best, and a cooler place that still provides filtered light is ideal in the winter. Temperatures from around 50 to 58 degrees Fahrenheit are optimal and away from radiators and cold draughts. When the buds of the blooms appear, move to the warmer location again.

Epiphyllums need higher humidity to thrive. Standing on a tray of wet gravel (making sure the plant’s roots aren’t absorbing the water), misting the stems, or using a humidifier can be helpful.

Fertilizer

Conservatively fertilizing your epiphyllum a couple of times a year is beneficial for encouraging strong growth and bud stimulation. However, because they grow naturally in an environment with low nutrient levels, be careful not to overfeed. A balanced, slow-release type that isn’t too high in nitrogen works well (i.e., not above 10%). A 2-10-10 application in early spring can help to encourage healthy blooms.

Types of Orchid Cacti

There are less than 20 true epiphyllum species, but thousands of hybrid varieties that come with a wide range of different sizes, shapes, growing habits and bloom colors. Some hobbyist favorites include:

• Queen of the Night (Epiphyllum oxypetalum): This popular species is known for their rare, large, and fragrant flowers that bloom at night. The flower’s funnel shape gives the plant its other common name—the Dutchman’s pipe cactus.
• Climbing cactus (Epiphyllum phyllanthus): If you want a smaller epi, this stout species could be for you. The flowers might be smaller than some varieties, but the beautiful pink tinge in the centre is eye-catching.
• Epiphyllum ‘Wendy’: This epi hybrid has large pink flowers that bloom during the day rather than at night. However, they don’t have the fragrance of true epiphyllum species.

Pruning

Slow-growing, epiphyllum can grow large and their trailing stems can get heavy. Cut the stems to a shorter length if you don’t want to support them with unsightly canes or twine. Use the cuttings to propagate new plants. New shoots usually grow behind the cut. If you cut numerous stems, your plant won’t need as much water.

Propagating Epiphyllum

Propagating by stem cuttings is the quickest and easiest way to produce new epiphyllum. It also means your plant will be true to type. If you’re lucky, they might even flower the following year. Follow these suggestions for rooting your stem cuttings:

1. Select healthy stem sections that are around 9 inches in length (if your cutting isn’t long enough, it can take longer to flower)
2. Allow the wound to dry and fully callus (harden)—this takes at least a week and is important to prevent rot.
3. Put the cutting vertically into a fast-draining cactus potting mix with additional pumice or perlite. Insert at least the bottom 1.5 to 2 inches of the stem.
4. Leave in a warm, dappled light position and don’t select a pot that is too large (epis like to be a little rootbound).
5. Start with just misting the cutting. Then, water once roots begin to form and make sure the potting mix remains damp (not soggy). Keep it at a temperature of around 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
6. It should take around a month to six weeks for the cutting to root.

How to Grow Orchid Cacti From Seed

Epiphyllum seeds aren’t easy to source commercially, and there’s no guarantee they will grow true to type. Producing your own seeds means you’ll have to pollinate the flowers by hand, and you’ll need two simultaneously flowering male and female plants. These difficulties, plus the fact that it can take at least four years for the plants to flower, mean propagating from cutting is much easier and more common.

Potting and Repotting Epiphyllum

To increase the chances of your epiphyllum flowering, you’ll want to make sure you don’t opt for too big a container or hanging basket. These plants like to be relatively root-bound and don’t need repotting often—it’s unlikely you’ll need to repot more than once every six to seven years. When you repot, do it after they have flowered to minimize root disturbance. Selecting a heavy container will help to keep the plant stable as the trailing stems grow.

Common Pests

Serious pests and diseases aren’t something that often bothers epiphyllums. However, keep an eye out for pesky mealybugs, aphids, fungus gnats, and red spider mites. Slugs and snails also love the thick stems of these plants, but hanging them in elevated baskets outside can help to minimize this problem.

How to Get Orchid Cacti to Bloom

This genus is famous for its large, fragrant flowers. Because of the wide variety of cultivars and hybrids, you have many bloom colors, shapes, and sizes to choose from. However, most of the main species only produce short-lived, white flowers that bloom at night. Flowers range from 1 to 12 inches in size and can bloom from just one night to a week. The smaller flowers tend to last longer. Depending on the variety, starting flowering times can vary from April to July. Occasionally, off-season blooming occurs in early spring and fall.

Moving your indoor epiphyllum to a cooler winter location and reducing water while never letting the plant completely dry out greatly increases the chance of a successful bloom the following season. Wait for the flower buds to form and then return the plant to its normal, warmer location.

Epiphyllum are long-lived and can provide interest for many years with the right growing conditions. Just be careful with your watering schedule, sunlight, and temperatures.

If you’re looking for a plant that resembles epiphyllum and has similar growing requirements, you can try a holiday cactus (Schlumbergera). These succulents like similar warm, humid, and moist conditions with filtered sunlight. Schlumbergera, however, are faster-growing and not as large as many epi species, and they bloom in the fall and winter.

The small fruit of many epiphyllum species is edible. It’s said to be similar to that of the pitahaya (dragon fruit), a closely-related plant.

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